A Year Without Fear: Men’s Health

Most people, standing astride a tow-in surfboard at the apex of a 75-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal, would have exactly one thought: I am going to die. Brazilian big-wave surfer Maya Gabeira understands this in her bones. Literally in her right fibula, which snapped as the force of a squirrely 80-ish-foot wave yanked her out of her board’s foot straps in 2013. A colleague on a Jet Ski dragged her to the beach, where she was given CPR and then rushed to a hospital…